A VISIT TO THE EX-CONVENTO AND CHURCH DE LOS AGUSTINOS IN YURIRIA

I took a day excursion to visit the church and ex-convent in Yuriria a town about an hour and a half from San Miguel.  The complex is one of the oldest of the colonial era, built over a nine year period of 1550-59 by indigenous workers under the order of the Augustinian Fray Diego de Chavez y Alvarado.  It is immense and fortress like;  the fortress-like aspect was in fact functional;  the settlers had to defend themselves against the Chichimeca tribes. (understandably not happy about the invaders!)

This bannister of made of mesquite.  It has been polished by hands over the centuries and feels like marble

painted bannister on the right

upstairs corridor lined by cells

view from a cell window

the communal toilets

crazy thinking about why they needed to all be in there at one time!

a magnificent but dead variety of cypress under which we had a mescal break!

CHURCH OR FORTRESS?

The Hokey San Miguel

 two examples of the weekend clownery near the Jardin 

COLORFUL ART

IT WAS OSCAR'S BIRTHDAY AND ONE OF THE STUDENTS SURPRISED HIM WITH A DELICIOUS KIWI AND PASSIONFRUIT CAKE

 OKAY, NOW BACK TO MY  PROJECTS

AN EXHIBITION OF VERY NON-TRADITIONAL HUIPILES AT BELLAS ARTES

 CLOSE-UP OF THE ABOVE

THIS ONE IS MADE OF SLIDES

THEN A DRIVE INTO THE COUNTRY TO GALLERY ATOTONILCO

TO SEE ITS' EXTRAORDINARY COLLECTION OF FOLKART

AFTERNOONS PAINTING AT OSCAR'S

I'm enjoying lazy afternoons at Artes San Miguel, where Oscar presides and encourages artists of all ages and levels of experience.   I also am happy to be the only gringa in the afternoon sessions.  It's a double "class" for me:  Spanish and Painting.

Here's what I've been working on...............................an interior of the handsome studio,

 Two little still life tondos

and a portrait of Maria, from a drawing I did of her at my life drawing session

TURBULENCE: of the soul

I have gone, in these 6 weeks in San Miguel, from attempting to buy a house here (2 weeks ago) to deciding that this is not the place for me (yesterday).  It's been an emotional roller coaster.   Each of these six years , since I've been alone, I have come for warmth, color and a beauty that deeply resonates with me.  And each year it has nourished me.

I fell in love with San Miguel when I first came as visitor with Michel in 1976.   Sister Jeanne was living in nearby Queretaro and we came to visit her.  She wanted us to see San Miguel where she had earlier come to learn Spanish and live with a local family.  We were all enchanted with it's beauty and with it's serenity.

What has evolved in the intervening 40 years is a shift to a place that has become an international destination.  As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it attracts people from all over the world. With that has come a tremendous influx of money.  With that has come wonderful restaurants, even more luxurious hotels, and hordes of people.  Good and not so good.

Yesterday (a Sunday) I wanted to fly home.  I couldn't sit in the Jardín.  No places on the benches.
A hundred hip, beautiful Mexican couples taking selfies with those dreadful pole things.  Mylar balloons poking anyone nearby with their shiny pointed rocket-shaped ends.  Elegant teenagers focused on their cell phones nudging you off the narrow sidewalks.   Americans, believing that by speaking LOUD in English they would be understood. And then being annoyed when they are met by puzzled stares.

This morning, Monday, I awakened with what has become a morning realization:   I am happy and fortunate to be alive!   I walked out of my door into the street to see the vendor of firewood and garden soil with his 2  burros laden with his wares.  The air was clean, it was silent.   I went down to my favorite greengrocer and picked up two ripe mangos and an avocado "para hoy", knowing it would be in a perfect state of ripeness for today.  Total bill: $1.92.   Then to the store that sells natural, organic products where I got my eggs from the rancho;  mango colored yolks from very happy hens (for very little money....don't even remember the paltry amount).

Next on my Monday agenda:   Advanced Spanish Conversation with Mario.  We are 3 or 4 or sometimes 5 in this little class.  Mario is brilliant, a wonderful teacher and lots of fun.  I'm learning so much and enjoying every minute of our hour together.   Where on earth could I do this for a little over $10 an hour?

I seem to be mentioning money a lot.  It is not the most important thing to me.  But it's a wonderful situation  when you can enjoy the best of life for very little money.

Sooooooooo, where does this lead me?   Well, I can't afford to buy anything right now.  That's probably good.   My money can't be accessed for a little while.  I guess the upshot is that I'll decide where I want to be later.   In the meantime..........there are so many extraordinary corners of this planet that  I want to know.     But I'm listening to the bells of San Francisco chime and the view from my living room is glowing with the illuminated domes of La Parrochia, Las Monjas, Nuestra Señora de la Salud and there is a storm brewing and I'm cozy here in my nest.

Bueno, yo no se.

THE JERK: (or why my balcony smells like a litter box)

This is a handsome and friendly looking cat who lounges on a neighboring roof top, that's why I tried to entice him by placing little saucers of cream and of local sausage on my balcony wall.  So much tastier than a hummingbird!

 My reward was a total rejection of the offerings (the congealed cream was not easy to remove, thank you very much).  And not only just a rejection:  he's sprayed my wall and discarded potting soil to make room for his toilet.

Señor Fluffy might just find some very "special" sausage next time!

Finally........an art class

I've been frustrated in finding an art class that works for me on this trip.   I prefer taking something  taught by a Mexican;  why this is hard to find is puzzling, but in any case,  here I am in Oscar's class.
I'm happy because it's just a 3 minute walk from home and most of the students are Mexican and the structure is very flexible.  It does give me a defined framework in which to create.

I started yesterday and took two small round canvas supports, just about 5" in diameter.  I also took three figs and a bowl from my place.  Here's what I started yesterday and finished today.  I'm also working on a little garlic/shallot piece on the second "tondo".